Thus far on my road trip I’ve basically been making up plans as I go along. But my main goal for sticking around in this area was to visit Pipestone National Monument in Pipestone, Minnesota. I’ve had this on my “to do” list now for a few years and it never came together but happily today was just about the perfect time. It’s a small site (all things considered) but don’t let that fool you, it’s bursting with cultural significance.
Visitor Center
Obviously the visitor center is always a good starting point, but at Pipestone it is a 100% do not skip destination. There are only a small number of exhibits but the are all of deep value so read and watch everything you can. There is a 22-minute film called “Pipestone: An Unbroken Legacy” (click here to watch it online) that covers it better than I can explain in a few short sentences, but in a nutshell this site is where 23 different tribes visit traditionally to quarry pipestone which is used in making sacred pipes for spiritual practices. In this first area, the displays center around how this is done, why it is done, and some details on the geology as well.
Across the lobby is a room dedicated to storing a series of stones that have ancient petroglyphs “pecked” into them. These stones were originally located at the Three Maidens site at the far edge of the park (which you will see later in this post) but were moved indoors to protect and preserve them for future visitors.
Here’s a closer view of one of the stones showing what, to me, appears to be maybe a bison or two and another shape I can’t make out. These glyphs possibly date back as far as 3000 B.C. or as recently as 1750 A.D. and are used to tell stories. What do you see here?
Here’s another stone with other interesting glyphs. Possibly some people and the sun? One can only imagine the full stories being told here. You can definitely more clearly see the “pecking” technique of banging a stone to essentially chisel it into the rock used to make the shapes.
Not pictured here: Being a weekend, there are several members of local tribes that are shaping pipestone into various pipes, shapes, and other objects. You can watch and even discuss with the artisans, but I believe one sign mentioned photos are somewhat frowned upon (or at least unless you ask first). Out of respect I kept the camera off and just enjoyed the interaction for my own, and highly suggest if you have the same opportunity to take it all in. History is very cool but live-action culture is rare.
Circle Trail
Just outside the visitor center are two connected trails that are mostly paved and accessible and are not very long in distance. Weather today is very pleasant with some gusting winds; even if weather is bad you should try to check this out. I started with the 3/4 mile Circle Trail and moved in a clockwise direction which I think is the ideal route. First point of interest is the Spotted Pipestone Quarry, a location used by tribe members and is named as such due to the hematite speckles found in this specific pit. Permits and tribal membership are required to explore further into the quarry so this is all we can observe here. [Side note: There is ongoing debate about the preferred terms and much of the signage here refers to the people as “American Indians.” I’m not going to speak authoritatively here on the correct or preferred verbiage, but at least from my research the latest positive terms are Native Americans or Indigenous peoples. Out of respect I try to use those terms most of the time, but I wanted to point out to those unaware to spread understanding. As such, some of these displays may have antiquated language but I do not believe any of it is used to be in the negative/diminutive.]
Pipestone Creek originates not far from here and runs through the site. Along the trail you can find some small little rock gardens and maybe a couple 1-2 foot drops such as this. Of course being fall water levels appear to be seasonally low but are still flowing and quite nice. Everything here is growing thick and much of the vegetation is still bright green as it has been warmer than average for the season.
In different spots along the trail, and even some areas in the far distance, you may catch a glimpse of what looks like clusters of flags or small knots. These are prayer ties for spiritual reasons for prayer. The colors are significant to the person who chooses them, and often these are filled with offerings of tobacco. In the far distance (too far for me to even get a photo) is a large cottonwood tree used for the Wiwáŋyaŋg Wačípi (Sun Dance) which is a ceremony of extreme importance as it ensures the tribe’s well-being and renews their relationship between humans and the natural world. As you make your way down the trail please be respectful of these displays realizing the significance and don’t remove or disturb them, they are in fact not litter!
Continuing to move in the upstream direction along the creek you will notice the increase of boulders and eventually a 15-20 foot tall waterfall. Nothing stopping you from heading directly there straight away, but I continued on the trail to my left that heads up the cliffside and around/above the falls first. Don’t worry though, you’ll get to see it later and nothing will be missed.
There is a small series of natural stone steps heading gently up the small cliffside, and you will get to see much more of the exposed Sioux quartzite that is abundant in this region as you go along.
One very curious rock formation is marked as “Old Stone Face” on the signs. Hopefully you can see the resemblance for yourself. Quite the stoic looking gentleman, apparently he enjoys watching waterfalls, too!
Atop the cliffs the trail flattens out again and is paved in a small ribbon of asphalt. Along that route there is a barred-off rock with a plaque and some carvings. Apparently the Joseph N. Nicollet expedition stopped here as it was mapping the region back in the early 1800’s. (Note: Not to be confused with Jean Nicolet who explored the Great Lakes region in the early 1600’s; no apparent relation.) This was significant as the maps created were extremely accurate, and Nicollet used the Native names for sites which made for great historic records.
Pipestone Creek narrows atop the cliff and you can look down the edge of the falls. Not much to be seen here but always neat when you can walk across a waterfall’s edge so closely. Sadly the water quality is not so good – definitely don’t take a drink or go swimming, but it’s OK to enjoy as scenery.
Steps are carved into the stone leading back down the cliff and you get to go through a small rock doorway.
And back down below and just a few steps down the path you are rewarded with the best views of Winnewissa Falls. Due to the geologic properties of the Sioux quartzite it descends in a sharp and almost right-angle drop which is not often something you’ll see.
Continuing along the route, the path moves along the edge of the exposed cliffside. Rock nerds rejoice, you’ll enjoy this spot.
One last point of interest along the rocky edge is marked as “The Oracle” on signage. You’ll need to climb another short set of steps cut into the stone but it’s not that tall and the views are worth it.
Not only can you best observe the resemblance to a face from this elevation, but looking back towards the visitor center gives a great view of the entire site.
From here the trail is gentle and straight and leads back to where you started through a large tallgrass prairie. As mentioned earlier, conditions today are pleasant but winds are gusting strongly at times. I mention this as I could imagine this spot being great to watch birds and maybe butterflies (seasonally) when there are calmer breezes.
South Quarry Trail
Starting back at the visitor center again, there is another short 1/2 mile trail called the South Quarry Trail that…well, leads you past the pipestone quarries on the south side of the park. Directly adjacent to the visitor center is a small “Exhibit Quarry” that you can walk down into and is not actively quarried for stone. What it does show is the layers and explains the digging process. In short, you have to remove the top dirt layer first, then the quartzite which is piled into large mounds of rubble, and then you reach the Catlinite Pipestone. Two interesting things I learned from the signage was that the pipestone is basically highly compressed clay which is why it is ideal for working/shaping; and secondly, the pipestone layer runs at a 5-10 degree diagonal angle so as more stone is removed from the quarry it requires more effort to continue digging.
Not far from the Exhibit Quarry there is a sign marking the Joe Taylor Pit, a quarry site named for a member of the Mdewakanton Dakota who was “a quarrier & carver who taught others for decades. His family still quarries here.”
Here’s a view looking further down the quarry. Notice the large pile of quartzite rubble that has been removed from the quarrying process. Not shown here: I was lucky enough to see a family who are actually quarrying today. No photos to protect their privacy, and I was just trying to take things in and learn. I’m thankful they did not mind my presence. Keep in mind that no machinery is used, just hand tools and a wheelbarrow maybe at times but that’s all. Hard work to be sure.
Three Maidens
The South Quarry Trail dead-ends as it intersects the park entrance road. A short walk up that road allows you to reach a site called “Three Maidens”, a set of spiritually significant large boulders. You can also park in a small series of spaces directly adjacent if you don’t want to walk the entire way.
Here’s the full photo of the informational sign at the location explaining the significance. In short, the granite rocks are out of place for this area and were carried here by glacial movement during the Ice Age. Originally one single large boulder, it has since split into several pieces. They are held sacred and said to “shelter the spirits of maidens who require offerings from visiting Indians before permitting them to quarry pipestone.”
This was as close as I got to the stones today. I didn’t want to cross through the tall grasses and trample the plants or disturb any of the offerings. Not shown in the photo is that off to the right side of the frame are some buildings that at the time I didn’t know were part of the adjacent public park; however, there was a wedding event starting to form together and I didn’t want to cross those boundaries and disrupt their special time. Without private events like that you can easily walk around into shorter grass for a closer view. From here it was a walk back to the visitor center and on to the next spot!
Hiking Data
Here’s the route for today’s walk. Basically a big clockwise loop and then an out & back to the Three Maidens. There is another trail shown top left on the map but that is a service road and not open to the public.
Notice the almost non-existent elevation profile – a large majority of the path is flat and paved making it largely accessible and a fantastic experience for people of all abilities. Total distance just shy of 1 3/4 miles but that was made longer by my choice to walk the road to Three Maidens which isn’t an actual trail and adds around an extra 1/2 mile. Super easy and you can tell I was moving slow, taking lots of photos, and enjoying the experience based on the pace. Make a point to visit this place, you won’t regret it.
Fascinating place… have driven near it dozens of time along I-90… next time that direction we will tour Pipestone… thanks for posting this!